After inventorying all the parts construction begins. Here I am cutting the lightening holes in the main channel of the wing spars. This is done with a "Fly Cutter". Run the cutter as slow as your drill press will allow. Slowly feed the cutter into the aluminum. Wear hearing and eye protection when cutting. Do not use the Fly Cutter in a hand held drill.

I decided to taper the flange strips for the weight savings. The tapered strips look cool too. Here is a simple jig I constructed that allowed me to cut the taper on my table saw using a standard carbide tip blade. Slow feed speeds create smoother cuts. Draw filing the edges after cutting gives a very smooth edge. It took about 20 minutes to cut all the tapers in the flange strips.

This picture shows how I riveted the main wing spars. First I bolted the spar together putting a bolt in all the holes that do no get a rivet. I used the Avery C-frame tool and a 32 once hammer for riveting. Since I was working alone, I used 25 lb. bags of lead shot as my helping hands. 2x4 blocks of wood were used to keep the spar perpendicular to the rivet sets.

This shot show the main and leading edge ribs in place on both wings. The wings are about 30" apart in the jig.

My wings were one of the first wing kits with the pre-punched skins. The pre-punched skins was a $100 option when I ordered. Sure saved a lot of time.

Here is a view of the tank before the rear baffle is riveted on. I used alumiprep and alodine on the tank skins and ribs.

I chose to rivet the top skins on first. The open riveting allows for a better job of riveting where it really shows. I back riveted this wing and front riveted the right wing. I cannot tell the difference in the finish and the front riveting is much easier.

Closing the aileron is not really that hard. I propped one end in the v-block and used a homemade bucking bar in the close confines inside. Take your time and keep your gun pressures low.